PATTERN CORRECTION UPDATES

Hi everybody!

 

Oops!

I have made some mistakes in some of my patterns (it can be the purchased or the free versions), and I want to put this page for you. I always try to make them perfect, but if mistakes emerge, I review them inmediately and put all the necessary amendments. Below in this page you will find all corrections that have to be made to the PRINTED VERSIONS AS WELL AS THE ONLINE VERSIONS.

I want to apologize to our consumers and shops about these mistakes, and I invite you to contact me for any further questions....

pbquiltartist@artgalleryquilts.com

(305) 761-5401

Happy quilting!!

PATRICIA

 

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR FREE PATTERN "POSH FLOWERS"

In the backing quantity needed, we put by mistake:

"2 1/4 yd." Instead, it should say: "4 1/4 yd."

 

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR FREE PATTERN "MONACO"

In the cuting instructions, we forgot to put:

Three (3) 12 1/2" squares from fabric G. Cut them twice diagonally (for the side triangles).

 

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR FREE PATTERN "ROMANTIC ROSES"

In the FABRIC REQUIREMENTS for Fabric D, the correct amount that you have to sell in a kit or buy if you are making this pattern is 5/8 yd. instead of 3/8 yd.

In the cuting instructions for Block 1, we wrote by mistake:

"Two (2) 10 1/2" by 2 1/2" strips from fabric D."

Instead, it should say:

"Two (2) 10 1/2" by 2 1/2" strips from fabric E."

 

In the cuting instructions for Block 2, we wrote by mistake:

"One (1) 11 3/8" by 4 3/4" strip from fabric D."

Instead, it should say:

"Two (2) 11 3/8" by 4 3/4" strips from fabric D."

 

On the block construction, for each corner triangle, we wrote by mistake:

"Finish adding another fabric C 6 1/2" quarter square triangle on the corner"

Instead, it should say:

"Finish adding another fabric C 6 1/4" quarter square triangle on the corner"

 

On the block construction for each block 2, please follow these insructions instead of the ones provided in the project sheet:

Draw a vertical line in the center of the fabric D strip (having the strip possitioned horizontally in front of you). Now, draw a diagonal line on the same strip from one corner to the matching top vertical line of the strip, as if you were doing a flying goose unit. Draw another diagonal line on the opposite side (revealing a triangle). Cut on those diagonal lines. Position a fabric F triangle on top of a fabric D triangle (right sides facing together), aligning the longest side of the fabric F triangle with one of the short sides of the fabric D triangle. Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance along the side. Press open and repeat the process on the opposite side of the fabric D triangle. For the center unit of the block, piece two fabric G strips with one fabric C square in the middle. Join these 3 units together, following block 2 diagram. Trim "dog ears." Make four blocks.

 

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR FREE PATTERN "SENTIMENTS"

In the cuting instructions for Fabric A, we wrote by mistake:

"Four 10" squares."

Instead, it should say:

"Four 10" 1/2" squares."

In the cuting instructions for Fabric B, we wrote by mistake:

"Three 10" squares."

Instead, it should say:

"Three 10" 1/2" squares."

In the cuting instructions for Fabric D, we wrote by mistake:

"Three 10" squares."

Instead, it should say:

"Three 10" 1/2" squares."

In the cuting instructions for Fabric E, we wrote by mistake:

"Three 10" squares."

Instead, it should say:

"Three 10" 1/2" squares."

 

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR FREE PATTERN "GIPSY JEWELS"

In the Block Construction for Block 2, we wrote by mistake:

For the center unit, piece alternatively two 8 1/2" by 2 1/8" fabric C strips with one 7 1/8" by 8 1/2" fabric G strip in the middle. Make another one like this. Piece these two together with one 7 3/4" by 6 1/2" fabric D strip.

Instead, it should say:

For the center unit, piece alternatively two 2 1/2" by 2 7/8" fabric C strips with one 2 1/2" by 2 7/8" fabric G strip in the middle. Make another one like this. Piece these two together with one 7 3/4" by 6 1/2" fabric D strip.

 

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR FREE PATTERN "MOSAIC"

CORRECTION 1:

In Blocks 1, 3, and 4, the fabric patches are rectangles instead of perfect squares.Take this into consideration when you layout your fabrics patches to construct each block.

CORRECTION 2:

Each letter in the blocks correspond to a colored letter or "fabric style" in the FABRIC REQUIREMENTS described on top of the page.

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR PATTERN "MY FIRST PLAYMAT"

I forgot to write the quilting and binding instructions. Here they are:

QUILTING AND BINDING:

Layer backing fabric C right side down then put the batting. Put quilt top right side up on top of all. Baste the layers together. Very carefully trim excess of the batting and backing, to equal the finished size of the quilt top.

Set up your machine for free motion quilting. If you are beginner in this process, just do a pattern of meandering or stippling with solid or variegated threads of your liking. Reduce the top tension a notch, and also reduce the speed of your machine, so the quilting motion with your hands will be more comfortable and easy to you. Experiment and have fun!!

Cut enough fabric B strips 1 1/2" wide by the WOF to make a final strip that goes around the whole circle. Start sewing the binding strip at one point of the side of the quilt, placing the strip right side down and leaving an approximated 7" tail. Sew with 1/4" seam allowance (using straight stitch); aligning the strip’s raw edge with the quilt top’s raw edge. Stop sewing 5" before the end. Remove the quilt from the machine. Lay the loose ends of the binding flat along the quilt edge, folding the ends back on themselves where they meet. Press to form a crease. Using this crease as the stitching line, sew the two open ends of the binding with right sides together. Trim seam to 1/4" and press open. Complete the sewing. Turn binding to back of the quilt; turn raw edge inside and stitch by hand using blind stitch.

 

On Step 5. Make the pyramid, we wrote by mistake: 

Draw four triangles that have 8½" at the base and 8½" in height from the base...

 

Instead, it should say:

Draw 3 (three) triangles that have 8½" at the base and 8½" in height from the base and 1 (one) that has 8½" at the base and 7½" in height from the base (this last triangle will be the base of the  pyramid.

 

The BALL WEDGE TEMPLATE measures 10½" long and 3½" wide, instead, it should be 10½" long and 3" wide. Click here for the modified template.

 

Also, on Step 7. Make the ball, reads the following:

Position each interfacing piece (fusible side down) on top of the WRONG side of each of the six fabric B strips (Diagram 7). Fuse with a hot iron. Trim fabric ¼" away.

 

To make that last sentence more clear, it should read: Trim fabric ¼" away from the interfacing edge.

 

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR MILANO BAG

On the TEMPLATES-PATTERN PIECES insert, on PATTERN PIECE #2 (flap) we forgot to show the placement of the magnetic clasp. There should be a dot/mark two inches up from the rounded cut edge, along the center line. For a detailed image, click here

 

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR MAUI BAG

When referring to the MATERIALS LIST, please take into consideration that both the ultra firm & medium weight interfacings should be FUSIBLE.

 

On the Cutting Instructions, it should say the following:

Lining Fabric

Cut 1 strip 1½"x 12" (belt loops)

(instead of cutting four (4) 1½"x 3" rectangles; you will see that Step 4 only requires one strip that will be cut into four lenghts once sewn)

 

Medium Weight Interfacing

Cut 2 rectangles 30"x 3½" (handles)

 

On page 1, says:

Step 1. Make the Handles

Press the remaining 1/2" of fabric along top and bottom of the interfacing, towards the middle of the handle.

 

Instead, it should say:

Press the remaining 1/2" of fabric along top and bottom (1/4" on each side -top & bottom) of the interfacing, towards the middle of the handle.

 

 

On page 2, it should say:

Step 2. Zipper Pocket

Make the markings for the zipper placement on the wrong side (side without fusible adhesive) of the zipper interfacing (2" x 10"), fuse to the wrong side of the zipper facing piece.

 

With right sides together, lay the facing rectangle on the bag lining piece 5 ½" from the top edge. (Diagram 2.1)

 

 

On page 3, it should say:

Working from the back of the lining, center the 10” length of the pocket lining (10" x 10") to the top of the pocket facing…..

 

 

On page 5, it should say the following:

Step 5. Apply Magnet Clasps

Cut two 1 ½" x 2" rectangles from medium weight interfacing.

 

On the wrong side of one lining piece, mark the center by measuring 7 ¾" in from one side.

Measure down 1 ½" from the top of the lining piece along the center mark and place a mark.

Center one of the 1 ½" x 2" interfacing rectangles over this mark and fuse in place (be sure you fuse to the wrong side of the lining piece).

Re-mark your center over the interfacing rectangle.

Center one of the backing washers from the magnetic clasp kit over your center mark and trace inside each rectangular hole. Remove the washer and carefully make two slits in those marks using a seam ripper or scissors tips.

Place the arms of one magnetic clasp through the slits from the right side of the lining piece.

Put the washer over the arms from the interfacing side, sandwiching the interfacing and lining between the metal pieces.

Press firmly folding each arm of the clasp out and down in opposite directions around the washer. Make the arms as flat as possible.

Repeat for other lining piece taking care that lining top edges meet.

 

 

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR VERONA BAG

 

The correct amount for the PELLON PELTEX #71F Fusible Interfacing is 3/4 yd. Because this interfacing is 20" wide, there will be a shortage of 1/4" on each side of the lower corners of the "Pattern Piece 3"; that shortage could get lost in the seam allowance.

There was a mistake on the Pattern Piece#1 (Exterior Bag Top). The RIGHT "handle placement" should be moved so that the distance from the center is 3½". To see a detailed image of the template, click here.

 

 

CORRECTIONS FOR OUR PARIS BAG

 

There was a mistake on the CUTTING GUIDES section of the folded sheet. The MUSLIN FABRIC diagram shows Patterm Piece#3 and Pattern Piece #1, instead it should be Pattern Piece #3 and Pattern Piece #2. Click here for a detailed image.

 

 

CORRECTIONS FOR THE CHIC THROW

 

On the finished size of the throw we put by mistake 96" by 36". The correct finished size is 96" by 24"

 

 

CORRECTIONS FOR THE ESSENTIAL TOTE

 

On the finished size of the tote we put by mistake 16" tall by 18" wide. The correct finished size is 18" tall by 16" wide.

 

Also on the cutting instructions for LINING we put:

Cut 4 rectangles 25" x 5" (sides/base)

It should be 4 rectangles 27" x 5"

 

on the FUSIBLE FLEECE we put:

Cut 2 rectangles 25" x 5" (sides/base)

It should be 2 rectangles 27" x 5"

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